Byzantine textiles — Textiles — Applied Arts

By this name we define the first eight centuries of our era, emphasising that during the first four, Roman antiquity still imposed its decorative forms, characterised by sobriety and austerity, while later, under Justinian, the Muslim influence made itself increasingly felt, with a pompous display of wealth understood as the most complete outward mark of power. The fabrics of this period show traces of ancient and Christian decoration, reminiscences of Sassanian Persia and influences of the East on the West.

COPTIC FABRICS

Period

From the 1st to the 8th century AD

Description

In general the decoration is enclosed within a geometric form - circle, square, lozenge, arranged on rigid horizontal or vertical lines, and consists of hares, cheetahs, lions, mythological figures and athletes, represented realistically and in movement. Another type is a geometric motif of stripes, zigzags or plaits, worked in an ecru thread on a black or purple ground. The decoration can be divided into five categories: - indigenous; - inspired by ancient Rome; - of Byzantine inspiration; - of Sassanian inspiration; - of Islamic influence

Technique

Decoration produced by a warp effect, in which the weft works only to bind the threads. Fibres used: wool. linen and hemp.

Origin

Usage has given the name of Coptic Fabrics to the textiles from the Egyptian excavations, after the Monophysite Christians who still exist today in Abyssinia. At the time of the first discoveries, the experts decided that the excavated necropolis was Coptic: hence the name given to the fabrics. It should be remembered, however, that this name also covers fabrics of types earlier than Christianity as well as others that are clearly Muslim.